From the very first time I surfed, I felt there was something special about surfers. Their lifestyle, their commitment… their soul. Ordinary people like you and me with a big truth to share. A real fact: surf changes life. That’s why I’m telling you the story of Patrycja, a beautiful and charismatic creature, that was once “interrupted”.

I met Patrycja in Tofino, a beautiful surf town in Vancouver Island. Patrycja was originally from Poland and she was living in Vancouver, Canada from a while before. A brief chat at a breakfast table was enough to forge a strong connection. She was surfing in Tofino every possible weekend or days off. Her weekend routine was to get up before dawn, in the nocturnal Vancouver skyline, to take the ferry to the island to surf.

I knew there was something special about her. She emits a light that emanates to the darkest corners of the room, and her smile was nothing short of mesmerizing. Patrycja was about to radically change her life. After surfing and exploring the beauty of  Tofino together, she told me her story. Before surfing, she had depression. She had everything: a great job in Vancouver, a beautiful home on the top floor of a skycraper in the city centre, friends… but she was feeling totally lost.

One day her girlfriends booked a flight ticket to Hawaii for her. During the holiday Patrycja met Kevin, a local guy who was living in the rainy area of Oa’hu. After the hawaiian crash, too big to seems real, she came back to Vancouver and began surfing in Tofino. With time, Kevin and the ocean gave hope, health and healing to her. She felt in love with Tofino and its cold rainy surf too. As it often happens, she got to the point of making a choice.

hawaii surf story


This is a real story given to you from the bottom of my heart. Patrycja hope:

“… Hawaii feels like home now, but at the beginning it was really difficult. I didn’t realize how attached I was to Tofino trips! When the weekend was coming here, I had strong desire to wake up early to catch a ferry. I was getting grumpy and the first three months I almost not surf here. Instead I was going to the closet to smell my Tofino wetsuit and cry. 

Days went by and then I realized that I am very happy here. I am still waiting for the green card and work permit so I have the longest vacation ever! Plenty of free time gave me chance to relax, slow down and get inspired. And it’s so nice to live slowly.

I am waking up and having a coffee on the porch, then go surf (it’s around 40 minutes to the surf beach) where I surf sometimes 3 hours, come back home, little snack and nap and then work in the backyard garden.  In our area it rains a lot, so Kevin gave me the idea to work in the garden wearing the spring wetsuit.  Now I love gardening even more, when I see that it rains. 🙂

 So in short that’s my life now. Me and Kevin got married May 2nd in Volcano National Park with the presence of lava and the ocean.  Kevin’s dad was our minister and my parents came too! It was lovely little ceremony. Kevin is sweet husband, very supportive and understanding his crazy Polish wife 🙂 “


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